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The Beer Blog

Five questions with ... Matthew Barbee

By Rick Armon Published: March 19, 2012

Matthew Barbee is the brewer and owner of Rockmill Brewery, a small brewery outside of Lancaster that makes Belgian-style beers. Rockmill – which has garnered national recognition for its beers -- is located on a former horse farm and has one of the most picturesque brewery settings in Ohio. The brewhouse is in the former horse stables. 

Question: Why did you become a brewer?

Answer: Growing up, I was always more passionate about wine as my grandfather had started two wineries in Ohio and it was a big part of my families culture.  I was living on the West Coast and decided to visit my family back in Ohio.  My parents had purchased an old horse farm and I was immediately compelled to come up with something that would enable me to stay back in Ohio and live on this farm.  I had always dreamed of having a winery one day like my grandfather, but I wasn't interested in growing grapes on this particular piece of land.  Saison was the beer that turned me on to craft beer and beer/food pairing so I started looking into the old world method of brewing Farmhouse Ale. My stepfather is a hydro-geologist and he thought it would be a good idea to analyze the water.  I had just learned that beer was at least 90 percent water so that sounded like a good idea.  Dennis shipped off samples to a lab for analysis and the results were very exciting.  It turned out the minerality in our water was ideal for beers from the Wallonia region in Belgium.  At that point, I started brewing with the intent of opening up a small production, organic, Belgian-style brewery.

Q: Why did you decide to brew Belgian-style ales, as opposed to any other style?

A: Whoops, I think I've already answered this one.

Q: Have there been any challenges in launching a small, Belgian-style brewery in Lancaster? Or has brewing been easier than you thought?

A: Absolutely.  Everything we do is by hand and requires a lot of manual labor.  I had no idea how much work I was taking on.  Thankfully, my mother and stepfather decided to go "all-in" with me on getting this operation up and running.  There is no way I would be able to do this without them.  And now we have hired my brother-in-law Chris who has been a wonderful addition to the team.  It also helps that I've fallen in love with brewing.  I can't imagine doing anything else at this point.

Q:  What’s your best-selling beer and why do you think it’s so popular?
 
A: Our Tripel was our top seller in year one. It didn't hurt that Jeni of Jeni's Ice Cream got excited about making an ice cream flavor with it.  I'm still amazed at how she managed to capture the flavor of the beer through the cream. She has been a wonderful supporter and friend ever since we opened and I have her and the Jeni's team to thank for the wonderful exposure the ice cream flavor granted us. 
 

Q: Which beer – any beer in the world – do you wish that you created/invented/brewed and why?

A: I am going to cheat and rephrase the question. Which brewer do I want to be?  Brad Clark of Jackie O's [in Athens].  That guy is fearless.  He can crank out 30-plus beers a year and the quality is tip top. My style is much different. It took me 2 1/2 years to develop the four beers we opened with in September 2010.  Brad brewed a stout where he utilized the coffee bean that had passed through the GI track of a Civet Cat. It was the most exquisite coffee flavor I have ever experienced and I am excited to experiment with the same bean someday soon.

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