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Do IT this week: Layering
By Lisa Abraham
Beacon Journal food writer
POSTED: 09:38 a.m. EDT, Apr 16, 2008
It's spring. The grass is turning green. The sun is finally out. And spring foods soon will be on the plate.
But don't start looking for those English peas just yet.
While peas often get the credit for being the first produce of spring, in Ohio, they won't be popping out of their shells until sometime in June.
If you're looking for the true first harvest here, look for those tender shoots of asparagus to start peeking out of the soil within the next few weeks.
''If we continue on this pace, we'll see it in two weeks,'' said Ben Bebenroth, chef and owner of Spice of Life Catering Co. in Cleveland, which specializes in serving locally grown ingredients from area farms.
Bebenroth said the arrival of Ohio asparagus is a welcome culinary event.
''I'm a big fan of just wrapping it with prosciutto and roasting it,'' he said.
The first harvest of asparagus is a culinary turning point, marking the return of locally grown produce.
''We are always so anxious for this time of year. We've been cooking without the fresh produce for months now,'' said Mike Mariola, chef and owner of the Market Street Bistro in Wooster.
Like Bebenroth, Mariola is committed to using as much local produce as possible in his restaurant. At peak times in the summer, Market Street Bistro's menu is composed of more than 80 percent locally grown ingredients.
Local asparagus, Mariola said, is more tender than varieties grown elsewhere and shipped here. ''More importantly, the flavor is much more pronounced. The commercial version is a little bit watered down. Local asparagus is very flavorful and very tender,'' he said.
In addition, ramps — a type of wild leek — and arugula will be among the first local crops to start appearing.
Monica Bongue, owner of Muddy Fork Farm, a Wayne County organic farm that grows asparagus and other vegetables for local restaurants and for sale at farmers' markets, said it's the freshness of locally grown produce that makes it better than what has been grown in other states or countries and shipped here.
''You can tell the freshness by looking at the bottoms. If they are all dried up, it's not as fresh,'' she said.
Bongue said fresh asparagus will be tender, even if its stalks are fatter.
''The bigger ones are not necessarily any tougher than the skinny ones. Sometimes the really skinny ones are even tougher.''
When selecting asparagus at the farmers' market or the grocery store, Bongue recommends looking for stalks with tightly closed tips and bottoms that don't look dried out.
While many cooks will snap the ends off asparagus stalks, Bongue said it's just as easy to peel the tough skins off the stalks with a peeler and less will go to waste.
She said to be wary of stores that display their asparagus standing up in water. While it does help to keep the stalks fresh, the water can also transmit bacteria to the vegetable and cause contamination.
Bongue expects to start harvesting asparagus around the first of May. ''I think we should have a good crop this year,'' she added.
Local asparagus will be in season until the middle of June.
Mariola said he features many asparagus dishes on his menu throughout May, including asparagus risotto and an asparagus soup that's one of his favorites.
''This is a delicate, creamy and delicious spring soup,'' Mariola said. He noted that the recipe uses the whole asparagus stalks and peelings that otherwise would be discarded.
Bebenroth said grilling spring asparagus is an easy option, especially since many cooks are eager to start grilling outside once May rolls around.
''Grilled ramps and grilled asparagus make a great side dish for steaks,'' Bebenroth said.
He also favors splitting the stalks to about 3 inches from the tip, marinating them, and then putting them on a very hot grill. Bebenroth marinates with olive oil, rice wine vinegar, chili pepper flakes and garlic.
On June 8, Bebenroth will cater a six-course asparagus dinner at Muddy Fork Farm with wine pairings. For more information, call Spice of Life at 440-623-9990.
GRILLED ASPARAGUS
1 bunch asparagus
4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. sea salt
1/2 tsp. dried chili flakes
Black pepper to taste
Preheat grill (preferably hardwood or charcoal).
Split asparagus stalks in half lengthwise from the bottom to about 3 inches from the tip, leaving tip intact.
Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl and mix thoroughly.
Pour marinade over split asparagus spears; allow to sit at room temperature for approximately 20 minutes.
Grill over an extremely hot spot on the grill for 30 seconds to 1 minute per side.
Asparagus should still be crisp and firm after grilling. Do not grill it until soft. The texture is a very important part of this dish.
Makes 2 to 4 servings.
— Chef Ben Bebenroth, Spice of Life Catering
ASPARAGUS QUICHE
1 bunch asparagus
1/2 cup chopped bacon
1/2 lb. Swiss cheese
4 eggs
1 cup cream
1/2 cup milk
1/8 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 tsp. sea salt
4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked from stems
1 shallot, or 4 ramps if in season
1 9-inch unbaked pie crust, ready-made or homemade
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Trim asparagus stems by snapping off ends where they want to naturally break. Chop asparagus into 1/4-inch pieces.
Cook the bacon, reserving the fat for use in other recipes, and set aside.
Mince the shallot or chop the ramps. Grate the nutmeg over the shredded Swiss cheese.
With the back of a knife, smash the thyme leaves slightly to release their aroma.
In a bowl, crack the eggs and whisk in the cream, milk and salt. Stir in the thyme and shallots or ramps.
Spread half of the cheese over the bottom of the pie crust. Place the asparagus in the crust. Add the rest of the cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the filling and sprinkle bacon on top.
Bake at 350 degrees until quiche does not wiggle when side of pan is bumped, about 25 minutes.
Cool to room temperature, slice and serve.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
— Chef Ben Bebenroth, Spice of Life Catering
ASPARAGUS SOUP
4 large onions, diced
4 stalks celery, diced
3 tbsp. butter
4 bay leaves
2 tbsp. dried thyme
3 large white potatoes, chopped
1/2 cup white wine
6 lbs. asparagus stalks, chopped
Chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tbsp. butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook onions and celery in the 3 tablespoons butter in a large soup or stock pot on low for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add bay leaves, thyme and potatoes. Increase heat to high and cook for 3 minutes, stirring often. Add white wine. Continue cooking on high for 2 minutes. Add asparagus. Pour in just enough stock or broth to barely cover the vegetables.
Bring the soup to a boil and then reduce to a low simmer. Continue cooking until vegetables and potatoes are completely soft, about 1 hour. Remove bay leaves. Puree in a food processor and pass the soup through a screen or strainer to remove any fibers.
The soup can be made ahead of time to this point and refrigerated or frozen.
To serve, heat the soup base and add additional stock to create desired consistency. Bring the soup almost to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Add the cream, butter and salt and pepper to taste.
Garnish with blanched asparagus tips, white truffle oil or croutons.
Makes 18 servings.
Note: This recipe can be cut in half to make a smaller amount.
— Chef Mike Mariola, South Market Bistro
PENNE WITH ASPARAGUS, FRESH RICOTTA AND GREEN GARLIC
15 oz. fresh ricotta cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
3 tbsp. minced green garlic or 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp. grated lemon zest Salt and pepper
1 lb. penne pasta
1 lb. thin asparagus, cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces
Mix the ricotta, Parmesan, garlic and lemon zest together in a large serving bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling, generously salted water until almost tender, but still firm to bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the asparagus to the pasta and boil until the asparagus is just crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta and asparagus, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Immediately add the pasta and asparagus to the cheese mixture along with the reserved cooking water. Toss to coat thoroughly. Taste to adjust seasoning and serve with additional Parmesan.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
— Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes: Recipes from the Modern Kitchen Garden, Jeanne Kelley
Lisa A. Abraham can be reached at 330-996-3737 or labraham@thebeaconjournal.com.
It's spring. The grass is turning green. The sun is finally out. And spring foods soon will be on the plate.
But don't start looking for those English peas just yet.
While peas often get the credit for being the first produce of spring, in Ohio, they won't be popping out of their shells until sometime in June.
If you're looking for the true first harvest here, look for those tender shoots of asparagus to start peeking out of the soil within the next few weeks.
''If we continue on this pace, we'll see it in two weeks,'' said Ben Bebenroth, chef and owner of Spice of Life Catering Co. in Cleveland, which specializes in serving locally grown ingredients from area farms.
Bebenroth said the arrival of Ohio asparagus is a welcome culinary event.
''I'm a big fan of just wrapping it with prosciutto and roasting it,'' he said.
The first harvest of asparagus is a culinary turning point, marking the return of locally grown produce.
''We are always so anxious for this time of year. We've been cooking without the fresh produce for months now,'' said Mike Mariola, chef and owner of the Market Street Bistro in Wooster.
Like Bebenroth, Mariola is committed to using as much local produce as possible in his restaurant. At peak times in the summer, Market Street Bistro's menu is composed of more than 80 percent locally grown ingredients.
Local asparagus, Mariola said, is more tender than varieties grown elsewhere and shipped here. ''More importantly, the flavor is much more pronounced. The commercial version is a little bit watered down. Local asparagus is very flavorful and very tender,'' he said.
In addition, ramps — a type of wild leek — and arugula will be among the first local crops to start appearing.
Monica Bongue, owner of Muddy Fork Farm, a Wayne County organic farm that grows asparagus and other vegetables for local restaurants and for sale at farmers' markets, said it's the freshness of locally grown produce that makes it better than what has been grown in other states or countries and shipped here.
''You can tell the freshness by looking at the bottoms. If they are all dried up, it's not as fresh,'' she said.
Bongue said fresh asparagus will be tender, even if its stalks are fatter.
''The bigger ones are not necessarily any tougher than the skinny ones. Sometimes the really skinny ones are even tougher.''
When selecting asparagus at the farmers' market or the grocery store, Bongue recommends looking for stalks with tightly closed tips and bottoms that don't look dried out.
While many cooks will snap the ends off asparagus stalks, Bongue said it's just as easy to peel the tough skins off the stalks with a peeler and less will go to waste.
She said to be wary of stores that display their asparagus standing up in water. While it does help to keep the stalks fresh, the water can also transmit bacteria to the vegetable and cause contamination.
Bongue expects to start harvesting asparagus around the first of May. ''I think we should have a good crop this year,'' she added.
Local asparagus will be in season until the middle of June.
Mariola said he features many asparagus dishes on his menu throughout May, including asparagus risotto and an asparagus soup that's one of his favorites.
''This is a delicate, creamy and delicious spring soup,'' Mariola said. He noted that the recipe uses the whole asparagus stalks and peelings that otherwise would be discarded.
Bebenroth said grilling spring asparagus is an easy option, especially since many cooks are eager to start grilling outside once May rolls around.
''Grilled ramps and grilled asparagus make a great side dish for steaks,'' Bebenroth said.
He also favors splitting the stalks to about 3 inches from the tip, marinating them, and then putting them on a very hot grill. Bebenroth marinates with olive oil, rice wine vinegar, chili pepper flakes and garlic.
On June 8, Bebenroth will cater a six-course asparagus dinner at Muddy Fork Farm with wine pairings. For more information, call Spice of Life at 440-623-9990.
GRILLED ASPARAGUS
1 bunch asparagus
4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. sea salt
1/2 tsp. dried chili flakes
Black pepper to taste
Preheat grill (preferably hardwood or charcoal).
Split asparagus stalks in half lengthwise from the bottom to about 3 inches from the tip, leaving tip intact.
Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl and mix thoroughly.
Pour marinade over split asparagus spears; allow to sit at room temperature for approximately 20 minutes.
Grill over an extremely hot spot on the grill for 30 seconds to 1 minute per side.
Asparagus should still be crisp and firm after grilling. Do not grill it until soft. The texture is a very important part of this dish.
Makes 2 to 4 servings.
— Chef Ben Bebenroth, Spice of Life Catering
ASPARAGUS QUICHE
1 bunch asparagus
1/2 cup chopped bacon
1/2 lb. Swiss cheese
4 eggs
1 cup cream
1/2 cup milk
1/8 tsp. nutmeg
1/4 tsp. sea salt
4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked from stems
1 shallot, or 4 ramps if in season
1 9-inch unbaked pie crust, ready-made or homemade
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Trim asparagus stems by snapping off ends where they want to naturally break. Chop asparagus into 1/4-inch pieces.
Cook the bacon, reserving the fat for use in other recipes, and set aside.
Mince the shallot or chop the ramps. Grate the nutmeg over the shredded Swiss cheese.
With the back of a knife, smash the thyme leaves slightly to release their aroma.
In a bowl, crack the eggs and whisk in the cream, milk and salt. Stir in the thyme and shallots or ramps.
Spread half of the cheese over the bottom of the pie crust. Place the asparagus in the crust. Add the rest of the cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the filling and sprinkle bacon on top.
Bake at 350 degrees until quiche does not wiggle when side of pan is bumped, about 25 minutes.
Cool to room temperature, slice and serve.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
— Chef Ben Bebenroth, Spice of Life Catering
ASPARAGUS SOUP
4 large onions, diced
4 stalks celery, diced
3 tbsp. butter
4 bay leaves
2 tbsp. dried thyme
3 large white potatoes, chopped
1/2 cup white wine
6 lbs. asparagus stalks, chopped
Chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tbsp. butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook onions and celery in the 3 tablespoons butter in a large soup or stock pot on low for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add bay leaves, thyme and potatoes. Increase heat to high and cook for 3 minutes, stirring often. Add white wine. Continue cooking on high for 2 minutes. Add asparagus. Pour in just enough stock or broth to barely cover the vegetables.
Bring the soup to a boil and then reduce to a low simmer. Continue cooking until vegetables and potatoes are completely soft, about 1 hour. Remove bay leaves. Puree in a food processor and pass the soup through a screen or strainer to remove any fibers.
The soup can be made ahead of time to this point and refrigerated or frozen.
To serve, heat the soup base and add additional stock to create desired consistency. Bring the soup almost to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Add the cream, butter and salt and pepper to taste.
Garnish with blanched asparagus tips, white truffle oil or croutons.
Makes 18 servings.
Note: This recipe can be cut in half to make a smaller amount.
— Chef Mike Mariola, South Market Bistro
PENNE WITH ASPARAGUS, FRESH RICOTTA AND GREEN GARLIC
15 oz. fresh ricotta cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
3 tbsp. minced green garlic or 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp. grated lemon zest Salt and pepper
1 lb. penne pasta
1 lb. thin asparagus, cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces
Mix the ricotta, Parmesan, garlic and lemon zest together in a large serving bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Boil the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling, generously salted water until almost tender, but still firm to bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the asparagus to the pasta and boil until the asparagus is just crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta and asparagus, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Immediately add the pasta and asparagus to the cheese mixture along with the reserved cooking water. Toss to coat thoroughly. Taste to adjust seasoning and serve with additional Parmesan.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
— Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes: Recipes from the Modern Kitchen Garden, Jeanne Kelley
Lisa A. Abraham can be reached at 330-996-3737 or labraham@thebeaconjournal.com.
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