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Fired up for pork chops

Marinate, brine or rub spices on cuts of pork, lamb for simple gourmet meal

Chops are the Cinderellas of the grill. As the grilling season begins, cooks gravitate toward fancy filet mignon or glistening fish — or, more likely, burgers, hot dogs and chicken breasts — while chops are cast aside as the neglected stepchild.

Father's Day is this weekend, and most dads would love to be treated to dinner from the grill. And though chops may be often overlooked, these manageable cuts of lamb and pork are easy to prepare yet gourmet enough to impress. Chops can be prepped and seasoned hours in advance, and after a quick turn over hot fire, become the perfect foil for seasonal garnishes.

What format the fire takes is always up for debate. Should the grill be gas or charcoal? While gas is infinitely easier, proponents of the coal argue that there's no better way to get that smoky, charred flavor. The good news is that marinated, spice-rubbed or brined chops pack so much flavor that they're delicious coming off either type of grill.

Lamb chops have the advantage of being thin cuts of meat. Not only will they finish cooking in 4 to 8 minutes, but the seasoning also will permeate the meat more readily.

By nature, lamb chops favor Mediterranean or heavily spiced flavors, which make them a nice vehicle for marinades like harissa paste, a Moroccan blend of red chile peppers and cumin. Mixed with olive oil, a spoonful of garlic and the barest hint of cinnamon, the thin chops can marinate for as little as 30 minutes and need no additional garnish before serving. Herbs like mint, rosemary or oregano also take well to lamb.

Fruits or vegetables work particularly well at this time of year with both lamb and pork. Unless you're using a
fresh salsa, like the Cucumber-Mint Salsa accompanying Lemon-Oregano Lamb Chops (recipe below), it's possible to cook the garnish right on the grill.

In the recipe for Garlic & Rosemary Lamb Chops (recipe below), for example, grill-roasting the tomatoes imparts smoky nuances you won't get by roasting them in a regular oven. Because the tomatoes cook in a metal pan right over the fire, simply cover the grill, and let the heat do the work.

Cooking pork chops requires a bit more finesse and attention. They're thicker, leaner cuts of meat, which means they have a tendency to dry out or overcook.

There are a few ways to combat this problem, starting with the grilling method.

Chops from the rib or loin benefit from a more indirect cooking technique. Heating one side of the grill at a high temperature and the other at medium allows the chops to sear and caramelize over high heat. Moving the chops to medium and shutting the lid will then circulate the heat and cook the chops through without burning the exterior.

It's critical to take pork chops off the grill when they hit 145 to 150 degrees to avoid overcooking. The internal temperature of the chops will continue to climb for a few minutes once removed, and the barest hint of pink inside is perfectly fine — even preferable, for a juicier chop.

Many cooks these days don't think twice about brining a large turkey at Thanksgiving, but it can feel like extra effort for a few small pieces of pork. Still, it's worth the time and planning — the recipe for Maple-Brined Pork Chops with Herbed Cherry Compote (below) results in a moist, juicy texture that even a few extra minutes on the grill won't destroy.

If you don't have the 8 to 12 hours for brining, a few hours in a strong marinade will help flavor the chops. Try an Asian blend like hoisin and soy sauces with ginger (recipe below) to lend a salty kick. Basting the chops on the grill will help them form an attractive golden glaze.

With months of grilling ahead, chops of any variety provide a nice alternative to the usual menu suspects. Lamb chops can be a hit on the wallet, so they might not be appropriate for every day, but cuts of pork are more affordable.

Still, possibilities abound when it comes to cooking the chops. With an arsenal of recipes at the ready, they'll be the neglected stepchild no longer.

LEMON-OREGANO LAMB CHOPS
WITH CUCUMBER-MINT SALSA
6 garlic cloves, mashed into a paste with 2 tsp. kosher salt
11/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp. dried oregano
16 single-rib lamb chops
For the salsa:
1 large English cucumber, peeled and diced small
1/2 red onion, diced small
2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint (chiffonade)
For the vinaigrette:
3 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp. minced garlic
11/2 tbsp. minced shallot
1 tbsp. minced fresh oregano
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp. olive oil

With your fingers, mix together the garlic paste, black pepper and oregano until well combined — it should feel slightly sandy with bits of herb mixed in. Rub the herb mixture on both sides of the lamb chops. Place chops in a baking dish, cover, and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Meanwhile, mix the cucumber, onion and mint together in a bowl.

In a separate bowl, make the vinaigrette. Combine the lemon juice, garlic, shallot, oregano, salt and pepper, and slowly whisk in olive oil in a steady stream until well combined. Toss 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette with the cucumber mixture, and save the rest for the chops. Set the salsa aside, or refrigerate until ready to serve.

When ready to grill, remove chops from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the grill to high and cook chops, covered, for 2-3 minutes on each side for medium-rare. Transfer to a platter and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette.

Check seasoning on the cucumber salsa and serve in a bowl alongside the lamb chops.

Serves 4-6.

MAPLE-BRINED PORK CHOPS
WITH HERBED CHERRY COMPOTE
For the brine:
1 cup kosher salt
3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1 cup pure maple syrup
5 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf, torn into small pieces
3 sprigs thyme
8 cups water
For the chops:
4 pork loin chops
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tbsp. olive oil
For the compote:
2 tbsp. butter
1 large shallot, minced
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp. cherry preserves
2 cups pitted fresh cherries, halved
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 tbsp. minced fresh thyme
3/4 tsp. dried lavender

To brine the chops: Mix all of the brine ingredients together in a large bowl and stir well until all of the salt and sugar is dissolved. Submerge pork chops into the brine (you may need to weigh them down with a small plate), cover well and refrigerate for 8-12 hours. Do not brine for more than 12 hours, but if you're not ready to grill, you can remove the chops from the brine and keep them refrigerated on a plate for up to 24 hours.

When ready to grill, dry chops well, sprinkle with black pepper on both sides, and rub all over with olive oil. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

 

Preheat a grill so that one side is set to high heat and one side is set to medium. Sear the chops for 2 minutes on each side over high heat, then move to the medium-hot side of the grill. Cover, and cook until the internal temperature reaches 145-150, about another 10 minutes (you'll want to flip the chops halfway through cooking time). Remove to a platter and let rest for 10 minutes.

For the compote: Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat until bubbling. Add shallots and saute until fragrant and slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar and cook until reduced by half and syrupy, another 2-3 minutes. Add preserves and fresh cherries, and cook another 3-4 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, remove from heat and stir in the herbs until well combined.

Pour compote over the pork chops and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

HARISSA-RUBBED LAMB CHOPS
1/4 cup harissa
1/2 cup olive oil
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. cumin
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
16 single-rib lamb chops

Whisk together the harissa, olive oil, garlic and spices until well combined. Rub evenly over both sides of each lamb chop, and place on a baking sheet. Let marinate at room temperature for 30-60 minutes, or keep in fridge for up to 4 hours.

Preheat a grill to high heat. Remove chops from the marinade and wipe off excess, while leaving a little bit on the chops. Grill for 2-3 minutes on each side.

Serves 4-6.

HOISIN & GINGER GLAZED
PORK CHOPS
4 bone-in pork rib chops, about 2 lbs. total
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp. freshly grated ginger
1/2 cup hoisin sauce
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
3 tbsp. sherry vinegar
1 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
3 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 green onion, sliced thin on the bias into 2-inch lengths

Place chops flat in a baking dish. In a bowl, whisk all of the remaining ingredients together except for the scallions, and pour over the chops, turning to coat the chops evenly.

Cover dish, and marinate for 2-4 hours in the refrigerator, turning once halfway through.

When ready to cook, remove chops from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 1/2 hour. Meanwhile, preheat the grill so that one side is on high heat, and one side is on medium.

Place the chops on the high-heat side of the grill; reserve the marinade. Cook chops for 2 minutes on each side, then move to the medium-heat part of the grill. Cover and let cook until the internal temperature reaches between 145-150 degrees, about 10 minutes. Turn the chops a couple of times throughout cooking, basting frequently with a little bit of reserved marinade. Make sure to cook for at least 2 minutes after you baste the chops for the last time.

In the meantime, boil the rest of the marinade for 5 minutes, until slightly reduced.

When chops are finished, transfer to a platter and let rest for 5-10 minutes, loosely covered. Either serve whole garnished with scallions with the sauce on the side to pass at the table, or cut chops into 1/4-inch thick slices, fan on a platter, drizzle sauce over and garnish with scallions.

Serves 4.

GARLIC & ROSEMARY LAMB CHOPS
WITH GRILL-ROASTED
TOMATO COMPOTE
For the lamb chops:
2 tbsp. minced rosemary
6 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste with 2 tsp. salt
6 tbsp. olive oil
11/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
16 single-rib lamb chops
For the compote:
2 pints grape tomatoes
1/2 small red onion, diced small
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
2 scallions, sliced thin
Fresh lemon juice, to taste

Combine the rosemary, garlic-salt mixture, olive oil and pepper. Spread over both sides of the lamb chops. Place them in a baking dish and pour any excess mixture over the chops, making sure the surfaces are all coated. Cover dish with plastic wrap and marinate in refrigerator for at least 1 hour, up to 4 hours.

When chops are finished marinating, pull from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the grill, with one part at high heat and another at medium.

In a metal or disposable pie pan, toss the tomatoes with the red onion, garlic, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan on the medium part of the grill and cover the grill, stirring occasionally and cooking until the skins burst and tomatoes soften, about 10 minutes. About halfway through cooking time, place the chops on the hotter part of the grill for about 6 minutes, flipping once after 3 minutes. Transfer the chops to a serving platter and loosely cover.

Meanwhile, remove the tomatoes from the grill, stir in the sliced scallions and toss with a squeeze of lemon juice, to taste. Pour tomatoes over the chops or place in a bowl on the side, and serve immediately.

Serves 4-6.

Note: This recipe can easily be adapted to incorporate Mexican flavors. To do this, substitute the rosemary with oregano in the rub, and substitute the lemon juice with lime juice and the scallions with cilantro in the tomato mixture.

Chops are the Cinderellas of the grill. As the grilling season begins, cooks gravitate toward fancy filet mignon or glistening fish — or, more likely, burgers, hot dogs and chicken breasts — while chops are cast aside as the neglected stepchild.

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