Events Calendar
In This Section
Most Read Stories
Suitcase causes bomb scare at Akron bus terminal
Motorcyclist killed, wife injured in Stark County crash
Akron City Council OKs higher speed on I-77
Unusual sports bar to be sold at auction
Man says he was punched, robbed by 3 people in parking lot
Chapel Hill isn't rolling right along
Family found dead in Ohio home
Louisville athlete commits to play for Boston College
Blogs:
Pets:
Officials: NYer Had 20 Dead Dogs Buried in Yard
The Heldenfiles:
Tuesday Notebook
Patrick McManamon:
First and 10: Some ideas for a better second half
Akron Zips:
MAC Roundtable
Tribe Matters:
Indians announce spring dates
Cleveland Browns:
Mangini doesn't name a quarterback
Kent State Sports:
Bye week coming at good time for Flashes
Cleveland Cavaliers:
Shaq: It’s All About Winning Championships
Buckeye Blogging:
Buckeyes Roll 100-60 / Season Outlook
Varsity Letters:
Report: Walsh baseball player commits
All Da King's Men:
More On The Fort Hood Jihadist
Blog of Mass Destruction:
Dems Message To Women: Don't Enjoy The Sex
Akron Law Café:
Health Care Financing Reform: (63) Commonwealth Fund Report on Primary Care
See Jane Style:
Muffle Your Muffler
Car Chase:
Clock Tender- Extending the Life of Collector Car Clocks
Let's Talk Real Estate:
Rumors: Akron Starbucks Closing
Ohio Travels with Betty:
Jack is looking for a trip to Southern Ohio the week of November 16.
Sound Check:
Aeromsith looking for new singer as Steven Tyler contemplates solo career
HRLite House:
Personal Rant – Why People Do Not Live in Northeast Ohio
Akron Gamer:
Video: 'Modern Warfare 2' hits the streets
Don't wait for next big storm to discover tree trouble
By Mary Beth Breckenridge
Beacon Journal staff reporter
POSTED: 06:00 a.m. EDT, Oct 04, 2008
The winds that battered Northeast Ohio last month left a landscape littered with downed branches and toppled trees.
In some cases, the damage was unpreventable. But more often than not, the trees that suffered had been weakened earlier by disease, damage or structural problems, arborists say.
One thing's certain: Tree-threatening weather will return, be it in the form of heavy snow, thick ice or more high winds. So it's a good idea to evaluate your trees now for signs of problems.
Those trouble signs don't necessarily mean your tree needs to come down, but they may indicate the need to consult a qualified arborist. He or she can help you determine whether your tree poses a risk to property or people, and the arborist can help you get the tree into the best shape possible to meet the challenges ahead.
We asked three arborists — Jason Knowles, a tree consultant who operates Knowles Municipal Forestry in Kent; Bill Hahn, arborist for the city of Akron; and R.J. Laverne, manager of education and training for the Davey Tree Expert Co. — for pointers on identifying warning signs.
So get out your binoculars, take a walk around the yard and give your trees a good going-over. Here's what they suggested you look for:
Leaf issues
Leaves should be deep green and appropriately sized during the growing season, Laverne said. If a tree's leaves are smaller than they have been in the past or turn yellowish before their time, it's a sign of trouble.
The leaves should also be evenly distributed through the tree's crown, he said. Patches of dead or miscolored foliage may indicate a structural problem with the branch.
If leaves are clustered on larger branches with few on the tree's smaller twigs, that could indicate root problems.
Unusual changes Leaves that change color or drop too early are a sign of a tree under stress, Knowles said. So is unusually heavy fruiting or flowering. Sometimes a tree will send out a heavy flush of blossoms or fruit just before it dies, he said. It's a last-ditch effort to reproduce.
Dieback and decay
Dead and decaying wood is weak wood, and it's likely to fail. Some decay, such as rotting branches, is easy to spot. Some, however, is hidden inside the tree. Cavities and sunken areas of bark might indicate decay. So might a big area of bare wood, such as where a branch was removed but the tree didn't heal over. To test such an area, Hahn recommended tapping the trunk with a screwdriver handle. If the sound is hollow, he said, you might want to have the tree tested to determine how much good wood it contains. Mushrooms or other plants growing directly out of the tree are another indicator of decay, but don't confuse them with harmless lichens. Lichens are greenish-gray and look like mold. Mushrooms growing in a circle on the ground under the tree's crown could point to root decay, Laverne said. It's not a surefire sign, because mushrooms also grow out of organic matter in soil, he noted. But if they're under only one tree and not others in your yard, you may have a problem.
Poor branching
Branches should be attached to the trunk in U-shaped joints. A tight V-shaped branch attachment indicates weakness. In a V-shaped attachment, bark that should be pushed up and out of the joint as the branch develops is instead pulled inward, Laverne explained. That bark, called included bark, interrupts what otherwise would be solid, overlapping layers of wood tissue. That makes the branch susceptible to breakage. Included bark is also a problem with co-dominant stems, a fancy term for two trunks that are joined at the base of the tree. In most cases, it's best to remove one of the trunks so the tree doesn't split apart under a heavy load, Knowles said. Another sign of trouble is small branches called water sprouts that extend straight upward from a main branch. Those sprouts indicate the tree was pruned heavily and may be under stress, Knowles said.
Leaning
A tree that leans isn't necessarily unhealthy. But a tree that leans because of root damage could be in danger of falling. To tell whether leaning is a problem, look at the soil on the side opposite the direction the tree is leaning, Knowles advised. Cracks in the soil, heaving soil or roots at the surface that are being pulled up by the tree are all red flags. So is a significant lean — say, more than 40 degrees.
A trunk with no flare
Normally a trunk flares outward where it meets the ground. If it doesn't, it's possible soil has been added around the base of the tree. That could be a problem, because the extra soil can leave the roots buried too deep for them to get oxygen, Hahn said. The lack of flare can also be caused by girdled roots — that is, roots that grow tightly around the stem. That hampers the roots' ability to take up water and nutrients and starves the tree slowly.
Cracks and damage
Broken branches and obvious cracks are signs of weakness. Cracks and splits can be caused by lightning strikes, the freezing and thawing of sap and the twisting of the trunk in high winds. Cracked wood is structurally compromised, and it's likely to fail under rough weather conditions. Look for damage from mowers and weed trimmers, a common injury that can introduce disease in trees. Lawn equipment can damage the bark on the trunk or roots, disrupting the tree's protective layer and making the tree susceptible to fungi.
Obstructions
Pay attention to the health of a tree that's close to an obstruction such as a curb, a retaining wall or a road bed. If roots can't grow under or into the obstruction, the tree may be compromised, Hahn said.
Mary Beth Breckenridge is the Beacon Journal home writer. She can be reached at 330-996-3756 or mbrecken@thebeaconjournal.com.
A good start key to healthy trees
Good tree management can help reduce the risk of disease and damage. Here are some recommendations from arborists Bill Hahn, R.J. Laverne and Jason Knowles:
• Choose the right tree for the site. In general, the slower-growing the tree, the stronger its wood.
• Prune the tree properly, especially when it's young, so it develops a good structure. It's easier to correct structural problems when the tree is young, because wounds close quickly and disease is less likely to set in.
• Prune branches that cross. They'll rub against each other, creating areas of weakness.
• Mulch properly. Avoid ''volcano mulching,'' the practice of piling mulch against the trunk. The mulch holds moisture against the trunk and promotes bark decay and fungal growth. Instead, apply mulch in the shape of a shallow doughnut around the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
• Make sure the tree gets an inch of water a week. Water during dry periods.
• Pay close attention to the trees in your yard that are most likely to pose a danger to structures or people if they lost limbs or fell over. Laverne said every tree has two danger zones — the area beneath the tree's canopy, which could be affected by a falling branch, and the tip-over zone, the area that could conceivably be hit in the unlikely event that the tree fell over. The tip-over zone takes in everything within a distance equal to the tree's height. If houses, decks or other structures are within either of those zones, or if play areas, paths or other areas frequented by humans are located there, those trees merit special attention.
• Understand that trees can't live forever. Knowing the life expectancy and growth habits of the species can help you determine whether saving a tree is worthwhile.
The winds that battered Northeast Ohio last month left a landscape littered with downed branches and toppled trees.
In some cases, the damage was unpreventable. But more often than not, the trees that suffered had been weakened earlier by disease, damage or structural problems, arborists say.
One thing's certain: Tree-threatening weather will return, be it in the form of heavy snow, thick ice or more high winds. So it's a good idea to evaluate your trees now for signs of problems.
Those trouble signs don't necessarily mean your tree needs to come down, but they may indicate the need to consult a qualified arborist. He or she can help you determine whether your tree poses a risk to property or people, and the arborist can help you get the tree into the best shape possible to meet the challenges ahead.
We asked three arborists — Jason Knowles, a tree consultant who operates Knowles Municipal Forestry in Kent; Bill Hahn, arborist for the city of Akron; and R.J. Laverne, manager of education and training for the Davey Tree Expert Co. — for pointers on identifying warning signs.
So get out your binoculars, take a walk around the yard and give your trees a good going-over. Here's what they suggested you look for:
Leaf issues
Leaves should be deep green and appropriately sized during the growing season, Laverne said. If a tree's leaves are smaller than they have been in the past or turn yellowish before their time, it's a sign of trouble.
The leaves should also be evenly distributed through the tree's crown, he said. Patches of dead or miscolored foliage may indicate a structural problem with the branch.
If leaves are clustered on larger branches with few on the tree's smaller twigs, that could indicate root problems.
Unusual changes Leaves that change color or drop too early are a sign of a tree under stress, Knowles said. So is unusually heavy fruiting or flowering. Sometimes a tree will send out a heavy flush of blossoms or fruit just before it dies, he said. It's a last-ditch effort to reproduce.
Dieback and decay
Dead and decaying wood is weak wood, and it's likely to fail. Some decay, such as rotting branches, is easy to spot. Some, however, is hidden inside the tree. Cavities and sunken areas of bark might indicate decay. So might a big area of bare wood, such as where a branch was removed but the tree didn't heal over. To test such an area, Hahn recommended tapping the trunk with a screwdriver handle. If the sound is hollow, he said, you might want to have the tree tested to determine how much good wood it contains. Mushrooms or other plants growing directly out of the tree are another indicator of decay, but don't confuse them with harmless lichens. Lichens are greenish-gray and look like mold. Mushrooms growing in a circle on the ground under the tree's crown could point to root decay, Laverne said. It's not a surefire sign, because mushrooms also grow out of organic matter in soil, he noted. But if they're under only one tree and not others in your yard, you may have a problem.
Poor branching
Branches should be attached to the trunk in U-shaped joints. A tight V-shaped branch attachment indicates weakness. In a V-shaped attachment, bark that should be pushed up and out of the joint as the branch develops is instead pulled inward, Laverne explained. That bark, called included bark, interrupts what otherwise would be solid, overlapping layers of wood tissue. That makes the branch susceptible to breakage. Included bark is also a problem with co-dominant stems, a fancy term for two trunks that are joined at the base of the tree. In most cases, it's best to remove one of the trunks so the tree doesn't split apart under a heavy load, Knowles said. Another sign of trouble is small branches called water sprouts that extend straight upward from a main branch. Those sprouts indicate the tree was pruned heavily and may be under stress, Knowles said.
Leaning
A tree that leans isn't necessarily unhealthy. But a tree that leans because of root damage could be in danger of falling. To tell whether leaning is a problem, look at the soil on the side opposite the direction the tree is leaning, Knowles advised. Cracks in the soil, heaving soil or roots at the surface that are being pulled up by the tree are all red flags. So is a significant lean — say, more than 40 degrees.
A trunk with no flare
Normally a trunk flares outward where it meets the ground. If it doesn't, it's possible soil has been added around the base of the tree. That could be a problem, because the extra soil can leave the roots buried too deep for them to get oxygen, Hahn said. The lack of flare can also be caused by girdled roots — that is, roots that grow tightly around the stem. That hampers the roots' ability to take up water and nutrients and starves the tree slowly.
Cracks and damage
Broken branches and obvious cracks are signs of weakness. Cracks and splits can be caused by lightning strikes, the freezing and thawing of sap and the twisting of the trunk in high winds. Cracked wood is structurally compromised, and it's likely to fail under rough weather conditions. Look for damage from mowers and weed trimmers, a common injury that can introduce disease in trees. Lawn equipment can damage the bark on the trunk or roots, disrupting the tree's protective layer and making the tree susceptible to fungi.
Obstructions
Pay attention to the health of a tree that's close to an obstruction such as a curb, a retaining wall or a road bed. If roots can't grow under or into the obstruction, the tree may be compromised, Hahn said.
Mary Beth Breckenridge is the Beacon Journal home writer. She can be reached at 330-996-3756 or mbrecken@thebeaconjournal.com.
A good start key to healthy trees
Good tree management can help reduce the risk of disease and damage. Here are some recommendations from arborists Bill Hahn, R.J. Laverne and Jason Knowles:
• Choose the right tree for the site. In general, the slower-growing the tree, the stronger its wood.
• Prune the tree properly, especially when it's young, so it develops a good structure. It's easier to correct structural problems when the tree is young, because wounds close quickly and disease is less likely to set in.
• Prune branches that cross. They'll rub against each other, creating areas of weakness.
• Mulch properly. Avoid ''volcano mulching,'' the practice of piling mulch against the trunk. The mulch holds moisture against the trunk and promotes bark decay and fungal growth. Instead, apply mulch in the shape of a shallow doughnut around the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
• Make sure the tree gets an inch of water a week. Water during dry periods.
• Pay close attention to the trees in your yard that are most likely to pose a danger to structures or people if they lost limbs or fell over. Laverne said every tree has two danger zones — the area beneath the tree's canopy, which could be affected by a falling branch, and the tip-over zone, the area that could conceivably be hit in the unlikely event that the tree fell over. The tip-over zone takes in everything within a distance equal to the tree's height. If houses, decks or other structures are within either of those zones, or if play areas, paths or other areas frequented by humans are located there, those trees merit special attention.
• Understand that trees can't live forever. Knowing the life expectancy and growth habits of the species can help you determine whether saving a tree is worthwhile.
Comments
Click here to post your comments
Posted 10:37 AM, 10/04/2008
I 'wood' like to be an arborist when I grow up. Sounds like a good scam.
I could come out to your house, declare your large tree a menace, and bill you 4 figures to deal with it.
And who 'wood' gainsay me? I'm the expert! My laser printer 'degree' confirms it! And I have dozens of satisfied customer testimonials to back it up!
I'd drive a spotlessly clean green pickup with some ladders and wierd tools all over it, wear a green lab coat and hardhat, use a stethoscope to listen to the tree, make some measurements, stand back and go 'hmmmm' with my hand on my chin, and you 'wood' buy it.
And the guys who actually cut the thing down 'wood' even speak English! Guaranteed!
Akron, Oh
Posted 02:49 PM, 10/05/2008
Kevin sounds like an employee of Kent's Davey Tree Company. They'd sell water to tornado victims.
Posted 07:53 AM, 10/07/2008
Hey Kevin there is a lot of merit to what the article says! After the wind storms did you stay in your home? I was out and about and what I noticed was that A LOT of the trees that were down were dead, had wood damage to it or insects that had bored through it. This is the problem. People think that that nature will take care of itself but then when a branch comes down and takes out thier cable, thier power or thier phone they care on and complain about it. Gee, here's a thought, take care of your property and maybe you can avoid some of these problems!
I think the article gave a great example as to what to look for and why!
