Writing about wine is like pulling up to a stop sign on an Italian street corner. It’s only a suggestion. There are many, many options on the shelves for Italian pinot grigio. Rohco Blanchis Pinot Grigio from Collio, Italy, made me stop dead in my tracks and smile. Nice tropical flavors and a hint of orange peel on the nose. This pinot grigio has style.

The vineyards cover the hillsides with a breathtaking view of the Italian Alps near the Slovenian border. That might have something to do with it. However, the real reason is Giancarlo Palla. He and his family have captured Italy’s highest award, the Tre Bicchieri, among many others for their winemaking talents. Fortunately for us, the $14.99 price tag hasn’t caught up to all the accolades. I have tasted numerous pinot grigios. None this good. I really enjoyed this one with Blue Point oysters, grilled chicken and grilled radicchio. Molto bene! Buy this wine at Heinen’s, Mustard Seed Markets, West Point, Acme Montrose, North End Hudson.

— Phil Masturzo