Many lovely red wines come from Spainís Rioja region, some grand, others humbler. Midway along that spectrum falls Campo Viejo Tempranillo, the 2010 vintage going for about $10 at supermarkets and the like, making it both accessible and very well priced.

Tempranillo grapes make very food-friendly wines. This one starts off chummy with a fruity black cherry nose tempered by a bit of mellow tobacco. Big black cherry and cherry cola dominate upfront on the tongue but welcome modifiers of bitter chocolate and tangy blood orange enter at mid-palate and ramp up the wineís complexity considerably. A little black coffee pops up on a medium-long finish, sweeping away any hint of cola sweetness. The palate is cleansed and ready for the next sip or next bite.

Tempranillo pairs nicely with a wide range of robust foods but it should go especially well with roast pork redolent of garlic and citrus.

ó Colette and John Bancroft

Tampa Bay Times