When I go to a new restaurant, I usually zero in quickly on a couple of dishes that sound especially appealing. At Square 22, I wanted to order half the menu. Our party of four ended up passing our plates in a circle around the table so everyone could sample each dish.

Seafood and beef are the stars here. The swordfish had a zingy Tabasco-lime sauce and a very Cleveland side: pierogies. Great Lakes walleye came on a bed of tiny, tender spaetzle. For an appetizer, we enjoyed the seafood dip with crispy triangles of fried naan.

Local accents range from Ohio City pasta and a “Rust Belt” take on poutine to the reclaimed wood used for the tabletops. The wine list has extensive by-the-glass choices, and spirits lovers should check out the menu of more than 50 whiskeys, bourbons and scotches, including four different sampling flights.

The place: Square 22, 13485 Pearl Road, Strongsville

Why you should go: Creative menu in a chic urban setting

More info: 440-268-8322, thesquare22.com

— Lynne Sherwin